Chill, relax, breathe, shake off your preconceptions: we’ve come a long way since that last scene in Grease. We’re a long way on from the reign of the perm, yet ‘permanent waves’ are still an available treatment at a huge number of salons. Why ? Because the perm is clearly the forgotten secret to natural-looking waves. It’s time we remembered it’s brilliance (hey, any excuse to rewatch Pretty Woman – this time, for ‘inspiration’). Here it is – just a super useful guide to getting a modern perm. Now that’s a sentence I didn’t expect to write this week.
By Rachel Spedding
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1 What is it though?
Okay, it’s no longer just an 80s staple, the modern perm is all about adding volume and texture to any hair type (yep, even the naturally curly amongst us). The perm doesn’t have to mean tight and corkscrew, the ‘modern’ process is altered, to allow for looser, more natural-looking waves. A perm can work on all hair lengths, but your cut may determine how long it will last – layers are a good idea for maintaining volume (making hair less heavy for holding the style).
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2 How does the process work?
The ‘nowadays’ perm is all about customising waves to the individual wearing them, so the process will vary person-to-person. The size of rods used to hold the hair in place, and where they are placed across the head will differ. Following your consultation, your hair will be wrapped, perm solution applied and left to set. Once rinsed, your hair will dried (usually with a diffuser), and your perm is ready for showing off.
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3 How long will it last?
Once your perm ‘relaxes’ (usually after two weeks or so), the waves should stay put for around three months. The best part? Just like the natural dropping of curls after you’ve used a tong, or straighteners to style, the perm will slowly ease over this time. Of course, if you go for a tighter wave, the effects will last longer. I sense your temptation finer-haired folk. If you’re used to hating on thin hair that can’t keep volume, a perm is the treatment to try.
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4 How do I look after it?
The best way to keep your perm looking tip-top is to use a sulfate-free shampoo (this stuff can be harsh on hair and the scalp). Try drying with a diffuser to enhance volume and curls, or let the hair dry naturally for a sofer finish. Rough-drying will encourage frizz, so go gentle on those waves. Our number 1 tip? Don’t brush the hair when it's dry. Comb with your fingers if needs be, and use a wide-tooth comb to apply conditioner. Scrunch up, and ta-da – permy goodness.
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FAQs
What is a modern perm and who is it suitable for?
A modern perm adds volume and texture to any hair type, including naturally curly hair. Unlike the tight curls of the past, today’s perms offer looser, more natural-looking waves that can suit all hair lengths. People with layers tend to find the style lasts longer because layers reduce weight and help maintain volume.
How long does a perm typically last on your hair?
Once a perm has ‘relaxed’ after about two weeks, the waves usually stay for around three months. The effect slowly eases over time, similar to how heat-styled curls drop naturally. If you choose a tighter wave, the results will generally last even longer.
How should you care for your hair after getting a perm?
To keep your perm looking its best, use a sulfate-free shampoo and avoid rough drying, which can lead to frizz. Drying with a diffuser enhances curls and volume, while air drying creates a softer finish. It is best not to brush dry hair; instead, use fingers or a wide-tooth comb to apply conditioner and maintain your waves.
What happens during a perm treatment at the salon?
A perming process starts with a consultation, followed by wrapping your hair and applying a perm solution. The hair is left to set, then rinsed and dried, often with a diffuser. The size and placement of rods are custom to each person, making each perm unique to your style preferences.
Can you get a perm if you have thin or fine hair?
Yes, a perm is a great option for people with thin or fine hair struggling to keep volume. The treatment helps add lasting thickness and movement, making it a popular choice for boosting fullness in finer hair types.