In the immortal words of Joni Mitchell, you don’t know what you’ve got till it’s gone. I mean, she was talking about building car parks and we’re talking about natural curls but the message is pretty much the same.
If you’ve got naturally curly hair, your hair care routine is probably extensive. Curly hair needs TLC or it can actually lose its curl pattern altogether. Getting it back isn’t easy, either. In fact, if your hair is badly damaged, that curl pattern probably ain’t ever coming back (not fully, at least).
So, what’s to blame? Well, damage, obviously – from heat-styling and chemical treatments like bleaching, or relaxers – or dryness (often caused by damage). It could also be a case of your hair being too long and heavy, dragging the curl down. That one is much easier to fix.
While preventing your hair from losing its curl is a much better plan, there are things you can do to get your curl back. We’re all for second chances.
By Beth Ludolf
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1 Skip the shampoo
We’ve said it before, cutting down on shampoo is the way forward. In this case, though, it’s the only way. Curls love (and need) moisture. Washing your hair with shampoo too often (twice a week is good) strips your hair of the natural oils that keep it nourished. Rinsing your hair will help if it feels a little unclean between shampoo days, just massage your scalp under the water. Using a light conditioner every day works too. It keeps your hair hydrated and helps to break down any dirt leftover after rinsing sans shampoo.
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2 Give up heat-styling (like, completely)
The heat-styling has got to go. Fully, forever. Lock up your heat tools and throw away the key. Heat-styling can totally (and permanently) change the structure of your hair which is pretty darn difficult to fix. Heat-damaged hair is dry, brittle and frizzy – none of which are conducive with healthy, bouncy curls. If you absolutely have to use heat (it has to be life or death), make sure you use a heat protectant. Oh, and don’t make a habit of it.
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3 Bleach is a no-go
You know it, we know it – bleach is bad. Real bad. Bleaching your hair raises the cuticle. If you do it repeatedly, this can be permanent. What happens when your cuticle is permanently open? Continuous and rapid loss of moisture. Not ideal. So, it’s time to embrace your natural colour. If that’s not your vibe, try glossing. Tinted glosses tone the hair without causing any damage (they’re bleach and ammonia-free).
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4 Add protein treatments to your routine
Our hair is made up of protein, keratin, to be precise. When it’s damaged, it loses protein, leaving gaps in the cuticle. Using a protein mask helps to fill those gaps (albeit temporarily), strengthens the hair and restores those long-lost curls. Olaplex is a professional-favourite but a homemade, natural mask can work wonders too. Try mixing an egg, half an avocado, a slug of extra virgin olive oil and coconut milk and a squeeze of honey. Leave it on for 45 minutes before rinsing.
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5 Hair oil is a must
Curls need moisture, we know that. Annoyingly, the curls themself make it harder for the natural oils from your scalp to disperse. The kinks in the hair strand keep the oil from reaching the ends, leaving them dry. Brushing the hair helps drag some of that oil down through the ends, but what do you do if you avoid brushing (so your hair doesn’t frizz)? Use hair oil, avidly. This will keep your ends hydrated and your curls intact.
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6 Get the chop
Sometimes you have to let go – cut your hair, and your losses. Cutting off the damaged hair and starting again is the best way to go (well, as long as you care for your regrowth better). When your hair is weighed down – by long, heavy and damaged hair – it will grow more slowly. Besides, if don’t go for the chop, the curls will probably be dragged down and appear looser. You’ve got this, and it will look so, so good. Trust us.
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7 Try a wash n' go
Just as the name suggests, a wash n’ go is a way of styling natural hair without the use of heat, protective styles or any other manipulation techniques (like stretching). In short, a wash n’ go involves shampooing to cleanse the hair, followed by conditioning to rehydrate. Next is detangling – some prefer to do this in the shower, that’s up to you – and, styling products (getting to know your curl type will help you choose the right ones). Layering is a good idea too. Spray, cream, oil works well for hair that loses moisture quickly. Finally, airdrying. Then you're good to go.
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