Hair removal; when to wax, thread and IPL

When to thread

Threading’s been big in Asia for aeons, but we’re only just wising up to it in the West now. An ancient art that offers precise, long-lasting results, threading’s the depilatory method of choice for plenty of A-List brows. But how does it work? ‘In threading, a thin (cotton or polyester) thread is doubled, twisted and then rolled over areas of unwanted hair, plucking the hair at the follicle level. Unlike tweezing, where single hairs are pulled out one at a time, threading can remove short rows of hair. Threading provides more precise control in shaping and is gentler on the skin,’ explained Nicoleta. You might find threading a little more painful for this reason – removing multiple hairs at once will always be more painful than doing them individually, but the results are worth it. It’s popular for brows, but also for the upper lip and other areas of the face, thanks to the precision it allows, as well as the post-treatment lack of redness. ‘Threading is not a good method for removing hair on arms or legs, as the hair in those regions is typically quite coarse and there is too much to remove,’ added Nicoleta.

Plus, the results last up to four weeks, as the hair is removed right at the root. If you’re looking for a whole face de-fuzzed or some seriously sophisticated brows, threading could be right for you.

When to wax

Forget what those teen makeover movies would have you believe – waxing should not elicit blood-curdling screams or take off ten layers of skin. ‘A tingling sensation can be felt briefly after waxing – this is the tiny nerve endings in your hair follicles reacting to the removal of the hair, and passes in seconds. After regular waxing, the discomfort lessens as the hair follicle becomes weaker,’ explained Nicoleta. Waxing is ideal for large, sensitive areas of the body – think underarms and intimates. ‘Almost any area of the body can be waxed, including eyebrows, face, bikini area, legs, arms, back, abdomen, and so on. Because the wax doesn’t pull the skin, it’s almost painless and suitable for delicate areas,’ added Nicoleta.

You might have heard of strip wax versus hot wax and wondered which is best – strip is used for areas of the body that have have thicker skin and therefore are less sensitive, like legs. A thin layer of wax will be applied, then a paper strip which will be ripped off. Hot wax is better for super-sensitive areas, as it offers less breakage and slower regrowth time. The wax will be applied thickly, left to cool for a minute then pulled away. ‘You’ll get fewer ingrown hairs with hot wax,’ noted Nicoleta.

If you’re thinking more about brows than bikini lines, the choice between waxing and threading (more on that later) is a personal one. ‘Threading can hurt more than waxing because the hairs are pulled out much slower. This is one of the main reasons that waxing is still considered to be a much more popular way of unwanted hair removal,’ mused Nicoleta. ‘Threading is a much better alternative to waxing if you have sensitive skin. Threading shouldn’t leave your skin red or inflamed, as there is much less contact with the skin.’

When it comes to crunching the numbers, Nicoleta had the following advice: ‘Waxing offers an affordable way to keep skin smooth for longer periods than shaving so you don’t have to wax as often. Waxing can keep your skin hair free for up to 3-5 weeks; however, results can vary with each person due to different hair types and how frequently you wax.’

When to IPL

You may well have been introduced to IPL and other light/laser based treatments via the medium of reality TV (Amy Child’s salon in The Only Way Is Essex? Kim saying she’s had ‘everything lasered’ in Keeping Up With The Kardashians’? I can go on…), but there’s plenty of confusion and misconceptions around it. It works by zapping (technical term) the hair follicle and essentially de-activating it so that it stops producing hair. ‘It progressively heats the skin to a temperature that damages the hair follicles and prevents re-growth, without injuring the surrounding tissue,’ explained Nicoleta.

Unlike waxing or threading, IPL can be used on any part of the body you want – though bikini areas and underarms are especially popular, as well as ‘baby hairs’ on the hairline. The real benefit of IPL over any other hair removal method is the unrivalled longevity of results: it can make you hair-free for good. ‘‘Treatments will have to be spaced 4-8 weeks apart to capture the hair on the right growth cycle, but you should see an approximately 10-15% reduction in hair per treatment. Most people will go for 6 to 8 treatments per area – possibly more for more sturdy areas such as the face or private area. A complete course of 6-8 treatments should result in a permanent reduction of hair growth; nevertheless, this is dependent upon individual skin tone and hair. An individual should expect to see a 60-90% reduction in hair growth. An annual top up session is suggested for maintenance.’

Of course, a course of IPL will always be more expensive than wax, but think how much you could spend waxing over the course of your life versus the down payment for the right sessions of IPL – you’ll probably find you’re saving money. If that doesn’t make you want to chuck out your razor and say sayonara to the Veet, nothing will…